Giambattista Valli finally made his debut in couture by staging his first ever Giambattista Valli Couture Fall 2011 show in Paris. Having worked under Emanuel Ungaro -who apprenticed under Cristobal Balenciaga– where he helmed the ready-to-wear line and honed his craft before deciding to start his eponymous label in 2005, couture was always present in his veins; so it was no surprise that the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture finally came knocking.
Giambattista Valli presented a collection of 45 looks which were based around the tunic shirt of the atelier worker. Translated into a skirt in the first look, the collection slowly blossomed as he churned out loose tunic dresses and that fitted and trapeze silhouette that is a favourite of his. Floral embellishments, beadwork and huge bow ruffles in a sea of white, black, pink coral and red adorned dresses that remind you of Valentino’s grace.
Dresses mostly came in two colours to keep the looks simple and polished, letting the elegance of the silhouette -that were decorated with ostrich feathers and floral appliques- speak for themselves. Headpieces and makeup were kept subtle; a smart move to draw the audience’s attention to the clothes. These were accessorised with metal belts and necklaces that were created by his partner and jewelry designer Luigi Scialanga. Then came the segment of dresses in leopard prints where the silhouette changed to an old 50’s couture with generous amounts of fabric. What was sorely missed in the house of Valentino when the great Valentino Garavani left, was certainly present here at Giambattista Valli Couture.
What Giambattista Valli did was prove to the fashion world that he could do couture; it was an affirmation. What he did was inject his usual ready-to-wear with the couture element. With these looks, he not only proved that couture is in his blood but also proved that couture is not a dead-end business that gets featured in retrospectives. It was a first and confident outing and we can only look forward.
‘The most beautiful thing about the couture is the devotion.’ -Giambattista Valli
No surprises then that Princess Charlotte Casiraghi choose to wear Giambattista Valli Couture to her Uncle’s wedding last week.
And last year if you remember, Charlotte Dellal -designer of London shoe brand Charlotte Olympia– wore an amazing voluminous Giambattista Valli wedding gown on her nuptials.
Probably of sign of things to come from the Italian maestro that is Giambattista Valli.