Dolce and Gabbana finally debuts its first ever couture collection called Alta Moda. Having previously produced one-off gowns for Scarlett Johansson, Bianca Brandolini and Andrea Dellal, you would think taking the Haute Couture initiative was the next natural step.
So after 27 years of ready-to-wear, 6 years of planning and 6 months of production, Domenico Dolce, Stefano Gabbana and their 35-strong design team have finally made history by showing their first-ever haute couture line –a whopping 73 looks– at the San Domenica Palace Hotel in Taormina, Sicily.
Only selected media were invited, namely The Daily Telegraph, Le Figaro and Corriere della Sera as well as editors of the various international editions of Vogue. Other notable guests included Monica Bellucci, Laetitia Casta, Scarlett Johansson, Isabella Rossellini, Francesco Scianna, Naomi Campbell, Marpessa Hennink, Stephanie Seymour and the current face of Dolce and Gabbana, Bianca Brandolini. No tweeting, filming or publication of any kind were allowed except for a few photo opportunities. Ultra secretive a la Tom Ford, but does it live up to the hype?
The debut Dolce and Gabbana Alta Moda Couture collection was nothing but full of classic Dolce and Gabbana signatures. Sicilian lace, embroideries, corset gowns, appliques, jewels, florals, bows, sheer fabrics and sheath silhouettes laden with Baroque elements. It was feminine flair as usual, nothing special or different from the ready-to-wear collections of late but perhaps more expensive craftsmanship and embellishments with a slight extravagant quality. Still, I can’t wait to see the full collection.
A first step nonetheless but it remains to be seen if Dolce and Gabbana will ever be inducted into the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and show at the Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris. Only time will tell.
“…is not because of us, but the customers. They really do not want to see their dresses in a magazine.” –Stefano Gabbana
“This is our style. It is not trend, I do not care if it is cool. Prêt-à-porter is different, it is about cool and how many covers will we get this season. Here, we are completely free. So for me this is not work but pleasure.” –Domenico Dolce
“Where Parisian couture riffs on French cultural tradition, this Alta Moda would look to all things Sicilian, from the ornamented excess of its Baroque period to the dress worn by Claudia Cardinale when she dances (to that same Verdi waltz) in The Leopard.” –Luke Leitch, The Daily Telegraph
“Lace and double satin tailleurs, embroideries dresses and simple sheath dresses, as well as redingotes and lambskin little coats and painted dresses…A new chapter in the history of Italian fashion was written today.” –Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief Vogue Italia
Image Credits: telegraph.co.uk, tfs/@CameronDecades